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recipes and conversations with my Indonesian friends, letter #5

 

Hello friends,

After a brief and glorious expansion (gasp, cocktails in bars with friends! a plane ride to visit loved ones!), daily life has shrunk again. The juicy parts of life have been scraped out and just an abridged husk remains. Do you feel the whiplash?

Grim headlines, smoky air, and the recent climate-doom UN report have also thrown me into a malaise that is hard to shirk, but I’m really trying to seek out the remaining delicious moments of summer to steady myself. Like eating pupusas on a blanket in Precita park with my mom on a rare clear day, or painstakingly tending to my dahlia beds, or quietly crying my way through a long overdue read of Minor Feelings by Cathy Park Hong — yes, a sad cry, but also a ‘you totally get me’ cry — while eating a new favorite passionfruit sorbet. Sometimes the main event of my day centers around slowly cooking an excellent dinner, and that is alright for now.

A dish on repeat lately: oseng-oseng pare, stir-fried bitter melon.

Pictured: The longer, juicier Chinese variety of bitter melon.

I adore foods tonically bitter –– a key component, I think, to the euphoria of eating. While the US (broadly speaking!) is lacking in bitter and astringent flavors, Indonesians love them –– whether they come from roots and herbs in spicy sambal, or strong, medicinal jamu drinks, or fruits like bitter melon or vegetables like luenca, a pea-sized eggplant often served raw with fried chicken.

My step mom says eating bitter melon is ‘good for your blood’ and she cooks it with chilies when she feels an illness coming on. I’ve read that the leaves are brewed into medicinal tea or crushed into poultices to heal eczema, too.

There are many types of bitter melon (visuals here), but there are two main kinds that can also easily be found at most Asian markets here in the US: South Asian (generally smaller, denser, with dragon-like skin) and Chinese (longer, smoother-skinned, juicier.) I love them both, and apparently so does most of the world –– bitter melon is endeared across the continents.

Mama Esti pounding bumbu (spice paste) for stir-fried bitter melon.

 

OH, and… have you ever seen an overripe bitter melon? This revered green cutie morphs into some sort of Stranger Things-like nightmare — a fluorescent-orange warty creature that gruesomely splits open of its own volition to ooze out gooey blood-red seeds. I do not joke.

Anyway, last month Esti and I cooked bitter melon several times (in between nursing baby breaks and cold plunges in the Iao Valley river) and now I have an adapted recipe for you, complete with greasy fried tofu and coconut sugar to balance the bitterness. Selamat makan, dear friends!

As always, feel free to drop me a line.

Be well 🖤

Recipe: Oseng-Oseng Pare

Serves 2-4

 

INGREDIENTS

- 2 medium bitter melon, halved lengthwise, sliced into ¼ inch pieces

- 6 oz firm tofu, cubed

- 1 medium tomato, such as roma, cubed

- 2 tbsp coconut palm sugar or brown sugar

- ¼ cup chicken or vegetable broth

- 1 green onion, thinly sliced

- white pepper, to taste

- salt to taste (I like it salty paired with plain rice)

- neutral oil, such as sunflower oil

For the bumbu:

- 2 cloves of garlic

- 2 medium shallots

- 1-3 bird’s eye chilis, depending on preference

- 2 candlenuts, can sub with macadamia/brazil nuts

- 1 small finger ginger

- 1 tsp terasi/belacan (fermented shrimp paste), or sub with 1 tbsp fish sauce/soy sauce

Other items you’ll need:

- large mortar & pestle or food processor

DIRECTIONS:


1. Fry the tofu until golden, sprinkle with salt and set aside.

2. Heat a pan over medium-high heat. Blend bumbu ingredients in a food processor or by hand until relatively smooth. Pour a tablespoon or so of oil to the pan and add the blended bumbu. Stir often until fragrant and sizzling, about 2 minutes.

3. Add the bitter melon and cook until starting to tenderize, about 5 ish minutes. Add the broth and coconut sugar and stir to evaporate the liquids and to de-glaze the pan.

4. Add the tofu and continue cooking until the bitter melon is just starting to lose its sharp green color. Add the tomato, salt and pepper to taste, and cook for another minute or so before turning off the heat. Toss in the fresh green onion. Serve with hot rice, and optionally sambal terasi (a very good idea.)

 

Selamat makan! Happy eating!

If you make the recipe, hashtag #threesaltedfish so I can see!

 
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Melati Citrawireja, E 12th St, Oakland, CA , USA

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